PETG Print Settings and Common Problems
PETG is tougher and more temperature-resistant than PLA, but it oozes more, strings more, and can be tricky to remove from certain bed surfaces. Most complaints about PETG are actually complaints about not adjusting settings from a PLA profile.
Nozzle temp
230-250°C
Bed temp
70-80°C
PETG needs less cooling than PLA — too much fan hurts layer adhesion. Reduce cooling to roughly 30-50% after the first layers, versus PLA's near-100%.
Common problems
Stringing is the most common PETG complaint
PETG oozes more readily than PLA at comparable temperatures. Increase retraction distance and speed from your PLA profile, and don't be afraid to drop nozzle temperature toward the low end of the range.
Full guide on this →"Elephant boogers" clogging the nozzle exterior
PETG tends to build up a small blob on the outside of the nozzle over a long print, which can eventually catch on the model and drag across the surface. Periodically wipe the nozzle exterior during long prints if you notice this starting.
Full guide on this →Pronounced elephant's foot
PETG stays soft longer than PLA after extrusion, making the bulging bottom-layer effect more noticeable. Elephant foot compensation in your slicer helps more here than with most other materials.
Full guide on this →Prints bonding too well to the bed
PETG can adhere so strongly to glass or PEI that removing the print damages the bed surface. A thin layer of glue stick as a release agent, or a dedicated PETG-safe surface, solves this without sacrificing first-layer adhesion.
Print going wrong with PETG?
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